Skip to main content

Oystergeddon: Willapa Bay's Benevolent Face

 Rhodesia Beach (Close to the Mouth of Willapa Bay)

(Drawing from The Five Chinese Brothers, by Claire Huhet Bishop and Kurt Wiese)


Tides.
They’re a mystery to me.
Sometimes I go to the beach and they’re out.
Sometimes I go to the beach and they’re in.
Until recently, my best hypothesis for the broad expanses of beach exposed at low tide was derived from a book I read in my childhood called The Five Chinese Brothers. The disappearance of all the water from a bay can be attributed, according to the book, to the first Chinese brother swallowing the sea. Since he can not hold the entire sea in his mouth for very long…



…I know it is unwise to walk out into the bay as far as Uncle Rico and Kip have in this picture. For instance, this would be a terrible time to hear the tsunami sirens.



Uncle Rico perfects his cockle hunting protocol. Gently dragging his rake behind him, he remains alert to the subtle impact of shell against rake.



We spend the low tide collecting cockles. From this strategic location, we know it will be easy to tell when the tide shifts directions.




When it becomes obvious the ocean is returning, we high-tail it to the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge Headquarters boat ramp…



…and set out for Long Island.



As on our last Red-Neck camping trip, we agree dinner will consist only of things that we capture.



Note to Beer Manufacturers: Interested in product placement like this? Contact Scott at The Narrative Image.


The tide is still rising, and the gentle incline climbing toward the beach means we’ll have to walk our kayaks to the shore, but unlike the mud sucking swamps of the west side of the island, the sandy mud on this side is firm, and the shallow water warm.


We find this site satisfactory.



We quickly set up camp…



…and quickly return to the bay to search for our dinner.


Oysters, scattered like gold doubloons from a recent shipwreck, lie in the water like dinner treasure. Eventually I bow to peer pressure and eat my first raw oyster. On one hand, I appreciate the nice little enamel plate. On the other hand, I wish I was more familiar with oyster anatomy and possible oyster parasites.


We strike-out with the crab trap. Oysters are shaping up to be the main course.


Tell-tale seaweed writes a clear high-tide warning in the rocks at the base of our campsite. Even Uncle Rico, Kip and I are able to read the message and manage to tie up the boats so they will be safe.




Kip breaks out the cigars.




Uncle Rico breaks logs into kindling.






(I’m not exactly sure who captured the wild parmesan cheese…but good job!)



With just a smattering of knowledge, a place that seemed inhospitable to me on my last visit suddenly seems like a haven of free seafood and desserts, a place where a tidal conveyor belt both pulls me to my destination and eventually helps push me back home.


During the night, I wake to the sound of waves slapping against the kayaks. But beneath the canopy of fir trees, there is no light and I see nothing. By morning, the water has retreated again.


A heavy mist saturates the trees and drips from the branches simulating rain that falls only on our camp.



A hot sun beats back the mist and dries out the camp.



The difference between high and low tide is stunning.



I don’t know about Uncle Rico and Kip, but I paddle away from Long Island feeling as if I’ve been granted a moment of grace, an instant in which a typically indifferent creation actually resembled a garden designed to sustain me, to nurse my hangover, and to warm me after the mini-death of unconsciousness.

I know it is an illusion – I know that this island can be as harsh and unforgiving as any ruthless business model – I know that luck is a factor – that some variables are unpredictable.

I think that in some ways, humans (at their best) have tried to cushion the hard aspects of nature by building social networks, by inventing insurance, by inventing banks and savings accounts, by finding ways to mitigate those times when bad luck works against skill and experience.

But I also think it is sometimes refreshing to cast one's self into nature, to ride the currents of impersonal physical laws and feel the judgment of a universe that isn’t driven by petty human selfishness.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Test Paddling the Thresher 140

Wilderness Systems has broadened their sit-on-top offerings this year with the introduction of the Thresher (this includes a 14 and 15.5 foot version). The Thresher seems designed to bridge a gap between overly stable, relatively slow fishing platforms and sleeker more touring-orientated craft, all for the sake of fisher-people who need to cover significant distances to reach their intended fishing locales, whether that's in the middle of a huge bay or out beyond the breakers in the open sea The characteristics that make this boat a good fishing option, should also make it a killer expedition photography platform/beer barge. I knew my test trials wouldn't be complete until I auditioned this state of the art bid for kayak fishing supremacy. The Thresher 140 I've probably been remiss for not highlighting this before, but the reason I've been able to rent and evaluate various sit-on-top kayaks is because of the reasonable and renter friendly policies of the ...

Miller Island Expedition: Columbia River Ghost Cult

My brother Fred sent me a checklist of things he didn’t want to forget for our second attempt at a Miller Island Expedition. Foil pans Steak Beer or whiskey/tequila Bacon Shovel TP Bug spray Homebrew Ghost repellents Scouting Miller Island from the Lewis and Clark Highway (Washington side of river) “Ghost repellents?” I asked. Well, it turns out that Fred had been doing some research and found an old article from American Anthropologist by Wm. Duncan Strong called The Occurrence and Wider Implications of a “Ghost Cult” on the Columbia River Suggested by Carvings in Wood, Bone and Stone. The article, written in 1945, revealed that bone carvings depicting figures with prominent rib cages, a symbol of death, were found in old cremation pits on Miller’s Island. Excerpts from the article: “It can be shown that among these peoples there was an old belief in the impending destruction and renewal of the world, when the dead would return…” “One of the most striking fea...

John Day River: Thirty Mile Creek to Cottonwood Bridge

"Ever since the creation of the world his invisible nature, namely, his eternal power and deity, has been clearly perceived in the things that have been made. So they are without excuse;" -Romans 1:20 "I'm not so sure about that, but whether or not we all make it through these rapids alive, I'm confident the grading criteria will be fair." -  Scott "Get ready to explore your world without boundaries." -  Wilderness Systems Owners Manual Sunrise found us on the outskirts of Wasco, high on the Columbia Plateau, our 3 vehicle convoy speeding through golden fields of wheat on toward Condon and then West to a 7:30 AM meeting with a rancher who would provide us a private launch site to the John Day river and also execute our car shuttle.   Startling verdant fields, free of the vestiges of irrigation, belied narratives of drought that punctuated the news. The fresh born morning, still cool to the senses, felt like the fledgling hours of a...